To start running with your dog, check they're ready for it, clip a fixed leash to a well-fitted harness or collar, and build up with short walk-run intervals over a few weeks. Go slower than you think you need to. Your dog will keep going long after they should stop, so pacing is your job.
Done right, a running dog is a happy, tired dog. Here's how to get there without sore pads or a sore shoulder.
Is your dog ready to start running?
Not every dog should run, and not every dog should start now. A quick check first:
- Age. Puppies are still growing, and repeated pounding on hard ground isn't kind to young joints. Ask your vet when your dog is old enough, especially for large breeds, which finish growing later.
- Build. Flat-faced dogs like bulldogs, pugs and Frenchies overheat fast and struggle to breathe hard. A brisk walk suits them better than a run.
- Age at the other end. A senior dog may still love to trot, but stiff joints and old injuries change what's comfortable. Short and easy is the rule.
- Health. If your dog carries extra weight, limps after long walks or has a heart or joint condition, talk to your vet before you add speed.
When in doubt, book a check-up before the first run. It's the cheapest insurance you can buy.
What leash should you use for running with a dog?
A fixed leash, held properly. Skip the retractable. A thin cord that pays out and snaps back is no use when you're both moving at speed, and the brake won't stop a lunge at a squirrel.
- Length. Four feet keeps your dog close on pavements and paths. Six feet gives more room on a quiet trail. Our leash length guide covers the trade-off in more detail.
- Width. Match it to your dog's collar. Our leashes come in 1/2 inch, 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch widths, and a wider strap is easier on your hand when a big dog surges.
- Hardware. Every one of our leashes has a solid cast, weld-free metal snap hook. Whatever you use, check the snap before each run. A run puts it under far more repeated strain than a stroll.
Hold it with your thumb through the loop and the spare strap folded into your palm, not wrapped round your wrist. Keep your elbow bent and your arm close to your body. A straight arm gets yanked; a bent one absorbs the tug. If your dog drifts out wide, shorten up a fold rather than gripping harder.
Collar or harness for running?
For most running dogs, a harness. It spreads the pull across the chest instead of the throat, which matters when your dog is breathing hard and you're both moving.
All of our collars come with a harness Style option for $8 more, sized by the chest rather than the neck. The size guide has the chest chart. Clip the leash to the harness and leave a light collar on for ID.
Fit matters more on the run than on a walk, because every stride is a chance to rub:
- Two fingers should slide under every strap.
- Check behind the front legs after the first few runs. That's where a harness chafes first.
- A collar should sit high and snug enough that it can't slip over the head if your dog stops dead.
Make sure your dog's name and your phone number are on them. Embroidery ($2 a letter) puts it on the collar itself, so there's no tag bouncing and jingling with every step.
How do you build up distance safely?
Slowly. Your dog's heart and lungs adapt quicker than their paw pads, muscles and joints.
- Start with walk-run intervals. Warm up with five minutes of walking, then alternate one minute of easy jogging with two minutes of walking. Twenty minutes total is plenty for week one.
- Add a little each week. Lengthen the running bits, shorten the walking bits. Don't add time and speed in the same week.
- Keep it to a few runs a week at first. Rest days count. Walks on the days in between are fine.
- Pick one side and stick to it. Use a short cue like "with me" so they learn where to be, and you won't get tangled at a crossing.
- Let them sniff and toilet first. A five-minute walk before you set off saves a lot of sudden stops.
Watch your dog more than your watch. Lagging behind, a tongue hanging long and wide, lying down, or limping all mean the run is over. Walk home.
How do you protect your dog in heat and on hard ground?
Dogs cool down mainly by panting, which works far less well than sweating does. That makes heat the biggest risk on a run.
- Run in the cool of the day. Early morning or evening in warm months.
- Test the pavement. Press the back of your hand to it for seven seconds. If it's too hot for you, it's too hot for paw pads.
- Choose softer ground where you can. Grass, dirt trails and park paths are kinder than concrete.
- Carry water for both of you on anything longer than a short loop, and offer it in breaks.
- Check the paws afterwards. Look for cracks, cuts or worn, pink pads.
After a wet or muddy run, rinse and dry the collar, harness and leash before they're stored. Damp straps rub, and they're no fun to clip on next time.
Ready to hit the road together?
Get the vet's nod, pick a fixed leash and a harness that fits, and build up in small steps. Find a strap that'll keep up in our handmade dog leashes, in three widths with the same weld-free snap on every one.
FAQ
Can I run with my dog on a collar instead of a harness?
You can, if your dog jogs at your side on a loose leash and never pulls. Most dogs pull at least a little when they're excited, though, and a harness keeps that pressure off the throat. If your dog pulls at all, use a harness on runs.
Are hands-free running leashes better?
Some runners like them, but a waist-clipped leash means your dog's pull goes straight into your hips, and you can't drop it in a hurry. We don't make one. A hand-held fixed leash, held with a bent elbow, gives you the most control while you're both learning.
Do you make leashes in custom lengths for running?
Yes. Every leash is made to order, so if four or six feet isn't quite right for your stride, send us your number through the custom order form.
Want the leash and collar to match on the run? Take a look at our collar and leash sets.